Matala

Location and Access

Matala is situated on the southern coast of the prefecture of Heraklion, in the Gulf of Messara, approximately 65 kilometres south-west of the city of Heraklion and 75 kilometres from the airport. The village is built in an amphitheatre-like formation around a small, wind-sheltered cove, with the beach and the famous caves forming the centre of village life. The area belongs to the Municipality of Phaistos and is situated near the village of Pitsidia, which is the administrative centre of the region.

Access to Matala is relatively easy. From Heraklion, follow the national road southwards, passing through Agioi Deka, and then turn off towards Moires, the ‘capital’ of Messara. From Moires, continue towards Pitsidia and then on to Matala. The road is tarmac-surfaced and in good condition, and the journey takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Along the way, you’ll pass through the farmland of the Messara Plain, with greenhouses, olive groves and vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see.

There are also regular KTEL bus services from Heraklion to Matala during the summer months (usually 2–3 services a day). The distance from Rethymno is approximately 100 kilometres (1.5 hours), and from Chania approximately 150 kilometres (2 hours). Many visitors choose to hire a car for greater flexibility when exploring the area. There are car parks near the entrance to the village, usually costing 2–4 euros a day.

The Beach and the Caves

Matala Beach is one of the most recognisable and frequently photographed beaches in Crete and the Mediterranean. Approximately 300 metres long, the beach has golden sand mixed with fine pebbles and crystal-clear, turquoise waters that are calm thanks to the protection offered by the bay. The sea deepens gradually, making it ideal for families with children. The beach is well-organised with sun loungers and parasols, but there is plenty of free space for those who prefer to spread out their own towel.

The hallmark of Matala is the impressive caves carved into the steep limestone cliffs surrounding the northern part of the beach. There are over 50 caves scattered across various levels of the cliff, some small and simple, others with multiple chambers, windows opening out to the sea, and internal passageways connecting different chambers. The caves were carved out of the soft limestone using tools, and the walls still bear the marks of the carving.

The caves were built mainly during the Roman period (1st–4th centuries AD) and were used as a cemetery – each cave was essentially a family tomb. Later, during the Byzantine and post-Byzantine periods, some of the caves were used by hermits and ascetics as cells and places of prayer. In modern times, the caves became world-famous as a refuge for the hippie community in the 1960s and 1970s.

Today, the caves are a protected archaeological site under the supervision of the Ephorate of Antiquities. Admission costs around 4 euros (reduced ticket €2 for students, children and senior citizens), and visitors can climb up to the caves via steps and footpaths that have been built for safety. The view from the highest caves towards the sea and the beach is simply breathtaking. A visit to the caves usually takes 30–45 minutes. Caution is advised, especially with children, as some sections have steep slopes and the climb can be challenging. Comfortable shoes with non-slip soles are recommended.

The Golden Age of the Hippies (1960–1970)

Matala became world-famous in the 1960s and 1970s when it became one of the most important pilgrimage sites for the international hippie community. Thousands of young people from America, Britain, Germany, Scandinavia and across Western Europe flocked to Matala in search of an alternative way of life, far removed from consumerism, social conventions and the Vietnam War, which was raging at the time.

The hippies settled in the caves, which they cleared out and converted into makeshift dwellings. They brought mattresses, blankets, candles and simple furniture, and created spaces that were modest yet comfortable. Each cave became a small home, and the community operated in a spirit of solidarity, sharing and freedom. They lived on very little money, ate simply (fresh fruit, fish, bread and cheese from the locals), and spent their days swimming, playing music, creating art, discussing philosophy and spirituality, and enjoying life under the Cretan sun.

The atmosphere was magical – in the evenings, bonfires were lit on the beach, guitars and bongos rang out, and songs by Bob Dylan, the Beatles, Jimi Hendrix and the Grateful Dead were sung. There was a sense of community, peace and freedom that attracted more and more people. Matala became one of the most important stops on the ‘hippie trail’, which included destinations such as Kathmandu, Goa in India, Marrakesh and Ibiza.

The famous Canadian singer-songwriter and painter Joni Mitchell lived in Matala in the summer of 1970, staying in one of the caves for several months. This experience inspired her to write the classic song ‘Carey’, which was released on the album ‘Blue’ in 1971. The song describes life in the caves of Matala, freedom, music, wine and a man she met there (Cary Raditz, an American chef who lived in Matala). The lyrics “Oh you’re a mean old daddy, but I like you fine’ and ‘Let’s go down to the Mermaid Café and I’ll buy you a bottle of wine’ refer directly to Matala and capture the spirit of that era.

Other famous artists rumoured to have visited Matala or spent time there include Cat Stevens (who later became known as Yusuf Islam), Janis Joplin, and Leonard Cohen. Although there isn’t always official proof of all these visits, the accounts of locals and former hippies who lived there keep these stories alive. Bob Dylan is often mentioned in these legends, although there is no confirmation of his visit.

The hippie era in Matala began to wane in the mid-1970s, when the Greek authorities, under pressure to develop tourism and bring the situation under control, began to impose rules and prevent people from staying in the caves. In 1976, overnight stays in the caves were officially banned. Most of the hippies left, seeking other places to stay. However, their legacy remained deeply ingrained in the identity of the Matal people. The graffiti they left on the walls of the caves – messages of peace, symbols of love, poems – are still visible, and the spirit of that era still lives on in the village.

Ancient History and the Surrounding Archaeological Sites

The history of Matala begins long before the hippies, in Minoan times. The area was the harbour of the ancient city of Phaistos, one of the largest Minoan palatial centres in Crete, situated just 15 kilometres to the north-east. The Minoans used Matala Bay for trade with Egypt, Libya and other parts of the Mediterranean. Later, during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, Matala became the port of Gortyna, the capital of Roman Crete.

Phaistos is one of the most important archaeological sites in Crete. The palace complex at Phaistos was built in a strategic position on a hill with stunning views of the Messara Plain and Mount Psiloritis, and dates from the 2nd millennium BC (2000–1450 BC). The palace has a similar layout to that of Knossos – a central courtyard, magnificent halls, storerooms with pithoi, theatrical staircases and elaborate architectural features. The famous Phaistos Disc – a clay disc bearing mysterious script that has not yet been deciphered – was found at Phaistos and is one of the world’s most enigmatic archaeological finds.

Agia Triada, just 3 kilometres from Phaistos, is a smaller Minoan palace complex that probably served as a summer residence or villa for the ruling family of Phaistos. Important finds have been unearthed there, including exquisite vases such as the ‘Vase of the Reapers’, which depicts a rural scene, and sarcophagi with striking frescoes.

Gortyna, about 40 kilometres from Matala, was one of the largest and most important cities of ancient Crete and its capital during the Roman period. Gortyna is world-renowned for the Great Gortyn Inscription, the oldest and most complete body of Greek law (5th century BC), which is carved into enormous stone walls. The archaeological site includes the Roman Odeon, where the inscription is located, the ruins of temples, the Praetorium (the Roman governor’s residence), and the impressive Basilica of Saint Titus, one of the oldest Christian monuments in Greece.

The Red Beach and Other Nearby Beaches

South of Matala, accessible via an adventurous 20–30-minute walk, lies the exotic Red Beach. The beach takes its name from the reddish rocks and the red sand, which comes from the weathering of the area’s reddish limestone and volcanic rock. The path starts at the far end of the village of Matala and climbs up the hill behind the caves. The route is of moderate difficulty – the path is rocky and uphill, and trainers, a hat and plenty of water are recommended, especially in summer.

Kokkini Beach is small and secluded, surrounded by steep red cliffs that create a surreal landscape. The sand is fine and reddish, and the water is crystal clear with incredible shades of blue and green. The beach is unorganised – there are no sun loungers, tavernas or other facilities – making it ideal for those seeking tranquillity and natural beauty. Alternatively, you can reach Kokkini Beach by boat or yacht from Matala, a service offered by many local boat operators.

North of Matala, about 3 kilometres away, lies the long sandy beach of Kommos. Kommos is a long, open beach with fine, golden sand and calm, shallow waters. It is easily accessible by car and there is a car park near the beach. Half of the beach is organised with sun loungers and a beach bar, whilst the other half remains unorganised. Kommos is also an important archaeological site – the Minoan harbour of Phaistos was discovered here – and a protected habitat for loggerhead turtles, which lay their eggs in the sand during the summer months.

Other nearby beaches include Kalamaki, a well-organised, family-friendly beach north of Kommos; the impressive Agiofarago – a gorge leading to a secluded beach accessible by foot or boat – and Vathi – a very secluded beach south of Matala, accessible mainly by boat.

Matala Today – The Matala Beach Festival

Today, Matala has developed into a popular tourist destination, but it still retains much of that laid-back, bohemian spirit. The village has tavernas serving fresh seafood and traditional Cretan cuisine, beach bars with music playing from morning until night, cafés with sea views, small shops selling handmade jewellery, clothing and souvenirs, and a lively atmosphere that attracts an international crowd of all ages.

The highlight of the year is the Matala Beach Festival, held every June or July, which celebrates the legacy of the hippie era. The festival is a three-day music and cultural event with free entry that attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world. It is organised by the Municipality of Phaistos in collaboration with local associations and volunteers, with the aim of keeping the spirit of Matala alive and promoting culture, peace, freedom and art.

The festival features four main stages – the Cave Stage (next to the caves), the Square Stage (in the main square), Tree Stage (under large trees) and Bridge Stage – where dozens of artists, bands and DJs perform rock, folk, reggae, indie, electronic and other genres. Both Greek and international artists take part, and the music continues from midday until late at night. As well as music, the festival includes street painting (artists painting in the streets), busking (street performers), workshops (art, crafts and yoga), film screenings, and other activities that bring the hippie spirit back to life.

Practical Tips

The best time to visit Matala is in spring (May–June) and autumn (September), when temperatures are ideal (22–28°C), there are fewer crowds and prices are lower. Summer (July–August) offers a livelier atmosphere, the Matala Beach Festival, and warm weather ideal for swimming, but the beaches and accommodation fill up and prices rise.

When it comes to accommodation, Matala offers a wide variety of options. There are hotels and rooms to let ranging from affordable (€40–60 per night for a double room) to more luxurious boutique hotels (€100+). The well-organised Matala Camping site is a short distance from the beach and offers shade, a restaurant, Wi-Fi, toilet facilities and space for tents or caravans (€7–12 per person per night). The campsite is a popular choice for backpackers and those seeking a bohemian experience. It’s advisable to book early if you’re planning to visit Matala in July–August, especially during the festival.

Bring a hat, sun cream and comfortable shoes if you want to walk to Red Beach or climb up to the caves, and of course a swimsuit and a towel. The atmosphere in Matala is relaxed and friendly – the dress code is casual and many visitors wear bohemian or alternative outfits that reflect the hippy spirit.

Matala is a symbol of freedom, a gateway to the past where history meets myth, and a place where the spirit of the 60s still lives on. Whether you’re standing in the caves imagining Joni Mitchell playing guitar under the stars, dancing at the Matala Beach Festival, or simply swimming in the turquoise waters as the sun sets, Matala will remain etched in your heart – a journey through time and into the soul of true freedom.