Rethymno

Location and Access

Rethymno is situated on the north-western coast of Crete, roughly halfway between Heraklion and Chania. The town is built in an amphitheatre-like formation around the historic harbour and the bay, with the Fortezza rising at its western end like a natural bastion. Rethymno has a population of around 35,000 (the wider area has a population of 60,000), but this figure increases significantly with the presence of thousands of students from the University of Crete, which is based here, giving the town a youthful, vibrant energy that blends harmoniously with its historic character.

Rethymno does not have its own airport, but it is situated a relatively short distance from Crete’s two main airports. Heraklion International Airport “Nikos Kazantzakis” is 80 kilometres to the east (about an hour’s drive via the national road), whilst Chania “Ioannis Daskalogiannis” International Airport is 60 kilometres to the west (a 45-minute drive). From both airports, there are regular KTEL bus services to Rethymno, as well as taxis and private transport services.

The port of Rethymno is situated on the eastern side of the city and mainly serves commercial vessels and cruise ships, but during the summer months there are also passenger services to Piraeus. By road, Rethymno is linked to the Northern Crete National Road (BOAK) and lies 80 kilometres east of Heraklion and 60 kilometres west of Chania, with regular KTEL bus services connecting the city with the whole of Crete.

History – From Antiquity to the Modern City

The history of Rethymno dates back to ancient times. On the site of the present-day city stood ancient Rithymna or Rythymni, a Minoan and later Hellenistic city mentioned in ancient texts and on coin seals. Archaeological finds in the areas of Mastaba and Kastelli (the hill of Fortezza) prove that the area has been inhabited since the Minoan period. During the Roman and Byzantine periods, the town continued to exist as a small harbour and fortified settlement, although it did not hold the same significance as other Cretan towns.

Rethymno’s real heyday came with the Venetians, who took control of Crete following the Fourth Crusade in 1204. The Venetians recognised the strategic importance of the location and transformed Rethymno (which they called Retimo or Rettimo) into a major commercial and administrative centre. During the 13th century, they built the harbour, walls, public buildings and churches. The 16th century was the golden age of Venetian Rethymno – imposing mansions were built, as were the Loggia (the commercial and political centre), the Rimondi Fountain, churches and monasteries were built, and in 1573 work began on the Fortezza, the massive fortress designed to protect the city from pirate and Ottoman raids.

Rethymno became the centre of the Renaissance in Crete – philosophers, scholars, artists and merchants gathered in the city, bringing ideas from Venice and Italy. Trade, art, literature and architecture flourished. The city had a distinctive cosmopolitan atmosphere that blended Venetian culture with Cretan tradition. Theatre, music and poetry flourished – the famous play ‘Erofili’ by Georgios Hortatzis, a seminal work of Greek literature, was written in Rethymno during this period.

In 1646, after a siege lasting many months, Rethymno fell to the Ottoman Turks, who continued to gradually conquer Crete (Crete remained under Ottoman rule until 1898). The Ottoman period transformed the character of the town – churches were converted into mosques, minarets were built (the tallest of which still stands today), hamams (public baths), and Turkish houses with wooden balconies (sachnisia). Despite the change in sovereignty, the town retained many of its Venetian features, and Christians and Muslims coexisted, creating a unique multicultural character.

During the Ottoman period, Rethymno was the centre of many revolutionary movements. In 1866, the Arkadi Monastery, a few kilometres outside the town, became a symbol of Cretan resistance when hundreds of Cretans (men, women and children) who had taken refuge there chose to take their own lives by blowing up the gunpowder store rather than surrender to the Turks – the massacre of Arkadi became known throughout the world and came to symbolise the Cretans’ love of freedom. In 1898, Crete was liberated and in 1913 it was united with Greece. Rethymno continued to develop as a cultural and educational centre, and the old town has remained almost intact, making it one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the Mediterranean.

The Venetian Harbour – A Living Museum

The Venetian harbour of Rethymno was built by the Venetians in the 13th–14th centuries and is one of the best-preserved Venetian harbours in Greece. It is smaller and more intimate than the harbour in Chania, with a particularly romantic and fairy-tale-like character. Its layout remains virtually unchanged – the semi-circular harbour with its protective breakwater, the mansions that surround it, and the small boats reflected in the calm water.

At the entrance to the harbour, at the end of the breakwater, stands Rethymno’s distinctive lighthouse, one of the oldest lighthouses in the Mediterranean. It was originally built by the Venetians, but its present form dates from the Ottoman period, when it was rebuilt in the 19th century. The lighthouse is shorter and more austere than the one in Chania, but just as photogenic. The walk along the pier towards the lighthouse, with the sea on both sides and the Fortezza rising in the distance, is one of the most distinctive experiences in Rethymno. The sunset from the harbour, with the colours of the sky changing and the city lights beginning to come on, is simply enchanting.

The harbour is surrounded by beautiful Venetian and Ottoman buildings that have been converted into fish tavernas, cafés, bars and restaurants. The façades of the buildings – with their pastel colours, wooden shutters and iron balconies – create a striking backdrop. The tables of the tavernas stretch out along the beach, and you can enjoy fresh fish and seafood whilst overlooking the harbour and the lighthouse. In the evening, the harbour comes alive – couples take romantic strolls, students and tourists laugh in the bars, and fishermen return with their catch. The atmosphere is authentic, relaxed and Mediterranean.

The Fortezza – The Imposing Fortress

The Fortezza fortress (from the Italian ‘Fortezza’ = fortress) is one of the largest and best-preserved Venetian castles in Greece and Rethymno’s most iconic monument. It stands imposingly on a hill (Paleokastro) on the western side of the city, offering breathtaking views of the town, the harbour, the sea and the mountains. Construction began in 1573 and was completed in 1580, following numerous pirate attacks that had devastated the city. The Venetians decided to build a strong fortress that could withstand long sieges and protect the population.

The Fortezza is star-shaped with four large bastions named after saints – Saint Luke, Saint Paul, Saint Nicholas and Saint Elias. The walls are enormous and thick, built of stone and concrete, and extend over a perimeter of approximately 1,300 metres. The castle covers a total area of approximately 130 stremmata, making it one of the largest Venetian fortresses. To build it, many buildings and churches that stood on the hill were demolished, and a vast quantity of materials and labourers were used.

Inside the fortress, there are significant buildings that have survived in various states of preservation. The Rector’s House (the Venetian governor’s residence) was the castle’s administrative centre. The Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim Khan (originally the Catholic Church of St Catherine) is an impressive building with a large dome that dominates the interior of the fortress. The Turks converted it into a mosque following the conquest. There are also ruins of ancillary buildings, storehouses, water cisterns, small churches and barracks. Despite its imposing appearance, the Fortezza failed to protect Rethymno from the Ottoman conquest in 1646 – after a long siege, the Venetians surrendered.

Today, the Fortezza is open to the public (admission around €4, concessions €2) and is one of the most popular archaeological sites in Crete. Wander around the bastions, walk along the walls (be careful, as some sections lack guardrails), explore the buildings, and enjoy the panoramic view from above. In summer, the ‘Erofili’ open-air theatre, situated within the Fortezza, hosts concerts, theatre performances and cultural events against the perfect backdrop of the fortress and the Aegean Sea at night – a unique experience. A visit to the Fortezza is a must – it is the symbol of Rethymno and offers a deep insight into the town’s history.

The Old Town – The Renaissance Labyrinth

The old town of Rethymno is the best-preserved Renaissance town in Greece and one of the finest in the Mediterranean. It stretches around the harbour and eastwards, forming an enchanting labyrinth of narrow, cobbled alleyways, arched passageways, hidden squares and surprising corners. Unlike many other towns that have been destroyed or modernised, Rethymno has kept its historic centre almost intact, thanks to strict laws protecting its monuments.

As you stroll through the old town, you are surrounded by architectural masterpieces – Venetian mansions with stone façades and coats of arms, Turkish houses with wooden balconies (sakhnisia) jutting out over the narrow streets, neoclassical buildings with colourful façades, and small Byzantine churches tucked away in corners. The doors are often adorned with wrought-iron details, the balconies are adorned with flowers, and a piece of history peeks out from every corner.

The most iconic monument in the old town is the Rimondi Fountain, a magnificent Venetian fountain built in 1626 by the Venetian governor Alvise Rimondi. The fountain consists of three lion heads from which water flows, adorned with Corinthian columns and decorative elements. The square surrounding the fountain is one of the liveliest in the city, full of cafés and shops. The fountain remains in use and its water is traditionally considered refreshing and delicious.

The Loggia is an impressive 16th-century Venetian building that served as a commercial and political centre – it was here that nobles, merchants and officials would gather to discuss business and politics. The building has a square floor plan with open arches and refined architecture. Today it houses the Archaeological Museum’s shop selling reproductions and is used for cultural events.

The Guerra Gate (Portara or Great Gate) is the only surviving section of the Venetian walls that once surrounded the city. It is an imposing arched gate leading into the old town, and is one of the most photographed spots. Above the gate stands a small tower that once housed a garrison.

The minarets are another distinctive feature of the old town. The Neratze minaret, approximately 28 metres high, is the tallest surviving minaret in Greece. It was built at the end of the 18th century next to the Neratze Mosque (which was originally the Venetian church of Agia Maria). Today, the Neratzé building houses the Rethymno Conference Centre and Conservatoire. Other minarets are scattered throughout the old town, serving as a reminder of the Ottoman period.

Mikrasiaton Square is a picturesque square with cafés, bars and restaurants, where locals and tourists gather. Four Martyrs’ Square is another central square surrounded by historic buildings and churches. Wander around without a map – the beauty of the old town lies in getting lost and discovering new things. Every alleyway hides little shops selling handmade jewellery, ceramics, woven goods, local produce and books. There are tavernas serving authentic Cretan cuisine, meze bars serving raki, and cafés where the locals play backgammon.

The Beaches and the Surrounding Area

Rethymno boasts one of the longest sandy beaches in Crete – Rethymno’s city beach stretches for over 12 kilometres to the east of the town, with golden sand and crystal-clear waters. It is fully equipped with sun loungers, parasols, beach bars, water sports and children’s play areas. Part of the beach is right next to the old town, allowing you to combine sightseeing with a swim on the same day.

To the west, towards Chania, lie tourist resorts such as Georgioupolis (25 km) with its beautiful beach and the river that flows into the sea, and Panormos (21 km), a picturesque seaside village with a sheltered beach and a peaceful atmosphere, ideal for families.

To the east of Rethymno, towards Heraklion, lies Bali (30 km), a tourist resort built around three small bays with turquoise waters and sandy beaches. Bali is quiet and well-organised, with tavernas and cafés right by the sea, and offers diving and water sports.

The most famous beach in the area is Preveli (35 km south), one of the most exotic beaches in the Mediterranean. The beach is situated at the mouth of the Megalopotamos River, which flows through the Kourtaliotiko Gorge and empties into the sea, creating a small freshwater lake. The most striking feature is the Preveli palm forest – hundreds of Phoenix theophrasti palm trees (a rare endemic species) growing along the river and the beach, creating a tropical landscape. Access is by car as far as Preveli Monastery, followed by a 15-minute walk down a footpath, or by boat from Agia Galini or Plakias. The beach has basic facilities (a kiosk, sun loungers) but retains a wild, natural character.

Agia Galini (24 km south) is a cosmopolitan seaside village with a large, well-organised beach, good restaurants, cafés and hotels. It is an ideal base for exploring the south coast. Excursion boats to Preveli, Matala and other beaches also depart from here.

The Arkadi Monastery – The Symbol of Freedoms

The Holy Monastery of Arkadi is situated 23 kilometres south-east of Rethymno, at an altitude of 500 metres on the slopes of Mount Ida. It is one of the most important monasteries in Crete, not only for its architecture and religious significance, but above all as a symbol of Cretan resistance and sacrifice for freedom. The monastery was founded in the 5th century AD and has been rebuilt many times. The main building, the katholikon (the main church), was built in the 16th century and features a magnificent Renaissance façade with pediments, columns and intricate decoration.

Arkadi became world-famous in 1866, during the Cretan uprising against the Turks. In November 1866, around 940 people (men, women, children, monks and rebels) had taken refuge in the monastery. The Turks laid siege to the monastery with 15,000 soldiers. After two days of fighting, when the Turks broke through the gates, those under siege decided to take their own lives rather than surrender. Konstantis Giamboudakis blew up the gunpowder store where the women and children had been gathered, killing hundreds of Cretans and Turkish soldiers. The massacre at Arkadi became a symbol of the Cretans’ love of freedom and caused an international outcry, with many European intellectuals and artists coming out in support of the Cretan cause.

Today, the monastery serves as a museum and place of pilgrimage. You can visit the main church, the gunpowder store (which remains as a monument bearing the marks of the explosion), the museum housing ecclesiastical relics and historical documents, and the ossuary where the remains of the victims are kept. The visit is moving and serves as a reminder of the cost of freedom. Arkadi is a National Monument and 8 November, the anniversary of the holocaust, is marked with official ceremonies.

Culture, Festivals and Nightlife

Rethymno is a cultural hub with a vibrant cultural scene all year round. The Cretan Food Festival takes place every July in the Municipal Gardens, showcasing traditional Cretan cuisine and local produce through cookery workshops, tastings, concerts and exhibitions. The Renaissance Festival brings the Venetian era back to life with theatre performances, music, dancing, exhibitions and workshops in historic venues throughout the old town.

The Rethymno Carnival is one of the largest in Greece, with a history stretching back centuries. It lasts for around three weeks leading up to Clean Monday and includes carnival parades, floats, parties, dances, and the famous parade featuring ‘Theseus’, a local masked character. The streets of the old town are filled with thousands of revellers in fancy dress, music and dancing.

In the summer, the Fortezza and other historic venues host concerts, theatre performances, film screenings and cultural events. The University of Crete, which is based in Rethymno, regularly organises lectures, seminars and cultural events.

Nightlife in Rethymno is lively and varied, thanks to the large student population. The old harbour and the old town are full of bars, cafés, clubs and raki bars that stay open late. Favourite haunts include Cul De Sac in Mikrasiaton Square, Chaplin’s Bar, Minibar, Nafpligio, and beach bars such as Portokali. The atmosphere is relaxed, friendly and affordable, with plenty of raki, music and fun until the early hours.

Cretan Cuisine in Rethymno

Rethymno is renowned for its excellent Cretan cuisine. Be sure to try antikristo (slow-cooked meat), mizithropitakia (small fried pies with mizithra cheese), kalitsounia with cheese and honey, plump snails, and seasonal soups. Staka (a cream made from butter and cheese) is a local speciality. For an authentic experience, visit tavernas such as Avli (in a 16th-century Venetian mansion), Raki Ba Raki, Prima Plora, Iliomanolis, and the Patsos tavern in the village of the same name. They all serve home-cooked food made with organic produce and a great deal of love.

Practical Tips

The best time to visit is in spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October), when the weather is pleasant and there are fewer crowds. For accommodation, the old town offers boutique hotels in restored Venetian buildings, whilst the beach area has large resorts. The town centre is best explored on foot, but you’ll need a car to reach the beaches and attractions. Car hire is available everywhere.

Rethymno is a town that invites you to slow down, lose yourself in the narrow streets, sit in a taverna and enjoy life. It is a place where history comes alive, beauty is everywhere, and the soul of Crete beats strongly. From the Fortezza to the harbour, from Arkadi to Preveli, Rethymno will remain etched in your heart – the most Renaissance-like, the most poetic, the most authentic town in Crete.