Gramvousa

The fortress was built by the Venetians between 1579 and 1584 as part of a wider defensive plan to protect Crete from Ottoman expansion. Its architecture (with an approximately triangular shape and fortification lines adapted to the terrain) and the sheer cliffs surrounding it meant it was considered virtually impregnable. However, its history shows that even ‘impregnable’ castles ultimately depend on people: in 1692, the fortress was surrendered to the Ottomans through treachery, and indeed it is reported that at that time it was heavily armed (with dozens of cannons).

Gramvousa’s most ‘legendary’ period, however, came much later, during the Greek War of Independence. During the Cretan Revolution of 1821, Gramvousa took on particular significance: for a time, especially around 1825–1827, it became a stronghold for revolutionaries and a focal point, as its location enabled it to function as a supply and defence base, but also as a ‘last bastion’ in a Crete that was under severe pressure. However, this isolation also had a dark side: the difficulties of survival and the lack of stable resources led some of the armed fighters and those settled on the island to turn to piracy, and so Gramvousa gained a reputation as a pirate stronghold in the Mediterranean, a fact that is vividly recorded in the collective memory and in writings about the island.

Under the Protocol of London (1830), Crete did not join the newly formed Greek state and remained under Ottoman rule, with the result that the fortress once again came under Ottoman control and, gradually, to be abandoned, leaving behind a site full of traces: ruins of buildings, sections of walls and the distinct sense that this place ‘lived’ intensely and then fell silent.

Today, a visit to Gramvousa is primarily both a nature-loving and historical experience. The climb up to the fortress (via a path leading up from the coast) is rewarded with a panoramic view of Balos, Kissamos and the open sea. On the beach at Imeri Gramvousa lies the famous ‘Dimitrios P.’ shipwreck, which has been there since 1968 and is a popular photo spot for visitors. Furthermore, the area is of great ecological value: significant biodiversity has been recorded (many species of birds and hundreds of plant species), which makes Gramvousa of interest not only to tourists but also to nature lovers.

There is no shortage of legends either: the tradition of a ‘pirate’s treasure’ hidden somewhere on the island is often mentioned, a tale that fits perfectly with its dramatic image and its transition from a history of revolutionary activity to a reputation for piracy. Whatever the truth may be, Gramvousa achieves something rare: it is both a picture-postcard landscape and an open ‘book’ on the history of Crete — from Venetian rule and the Ottoman period right through to the revolutionary years.

How to get to Gramvousa for a day trip:

1. By day cruise from Kissamos (Kastelli) The most traditional and easiest option is to go to Kissamos and take the large boat/excursion vessel that sails to Gramvousa and Balos. Usually:

• it departs from the harbour of Kissamos
• stops at Gramvousa (for a swim and/or a climb up to the fortress)
• continues on to Balos (lagoon) and returns. It’s ideal if you want to ‘do it all in one day’ without the stress of driving on dirt tracks.
• 2. By private boat / caique / organised smaller boat trip If you want more flexibility (fewer people, different times, more time on the island), you can:

• hire a private boat (with or without a skipper, as you prefer)
• or book a shorter excursion from the wider Kissamos area. This is ideal if you’re travelling in a group or if you want to take photos or relax without a ‘crowded’ itinerary.

3. How to get to the departure point in Kissamos:

• From Chania town → Kissamos (harbour): by car or bus (KTEL) to Kissamos, then by taxi or local transport to the harbour if the bus doesn’t drop you off right there.
• From Rethymno / Heraklion → Kissamos: usually by road via the VOAK towards Chania and then on to Kissamos (more comfortable by car). It’s possible by KTEL, but it usually involves combining services and takes longer.

Important practical tips

• Take water, sun cream, a hat and shoes suitable for the climb up to the castle (it’s uphill and stony).
• If you’re particularly interested in the fortress, choose a tour that allows plenty of time in Gramvousa.
• On windy days, there may be rough seas, and some tours may change their itinerary or be delayed.

Sources: 

• https://www.crete1821.gr
• https://www.haniotika-nea.gr